My deep target research is done using a Fisher CZ20 and on a salt beach with low mineralization. This is a good place to test these objects because of the low mineralization and the deep targets to study. We studied in the preceding chapters the effects of iron and how they might confuse the beginning detectorist and I hoped to show clearly the differences between iron and good targets.

You will remember that "coin spikes" are given off by some iron targets causing the hunter to think that he or she has a coin. The first thing that an inexperienced hunter will do is to receive a coin spike and complain loudly that he cannot pinpoint the target. When I hear of the pinpoint problems it is most often not a problem with pinpoint but only the "coin spike" effect. Remember that it will signal coin as you approach from any angle at different locations causing the problem with pinpoint. The inexperienced hunter is trying to dig a coin where none exists.

We determine that this is a "spike" by the following method. As you move the coil around the signal you will see that the tone doesn't fire at exactly the same spot and seems to jump around. Once you center the coil over the actual target you will get an iron tone. This is why it is absolutely necessary that you learn to use no discrimination if you use the CZ machines and just learn to read the signals. Leave the piles of rusty nails to the Tesoros.

I cannot stress too strongly, the importance of performing a target profile to obtain both information on target size and target shape. Often you may think that you have a coin signal only to discover that you are moving the coil over a buried bucket! I can often tell the difference between coins, keys, watches, and rings just by target profile. You should paint an image on your mind's eye as you sweep across the target from both directions as to the size and shape.

Another effect that I have not pointed out to you is the "null effect". The null effect is noticed by the careful hunter as he or she moves across a small iron signal and then stops to perform a "halo charge" by moving the coil swiftly across the object from all directions a dozen times or more to observe if a stronger halo appears and gives another tone which will indicate that the target is worthwhile and should be dug. The "null" is when a target refuses to charge or build up to a stronger signal but just fades away. This fading, or nulling is when the deep target is not worthwhile and is only a small iron target very deep.

As I move along the beach I may pickup small iron signals but a few movements of the coil over them tells me if they are fading instead of building and are iron. So much of my hunting is automatic that I have to stop and think about what I have learned to write it down for you.

I hope that these chapters have helped you to find the deep coins and rings. Probably over a third of my finds are found as deep targets that everyone else passes over and does not dig. That is why I never worry even though the beach is crawling with hunters because I always have virgin ground just a little deeper.

To utilize these deep searching techniques you should not just go to the local schoolyard which is loaded with all kinds of metal trash but carefully select the best sites where you can expect that there have been good targets very deep in the ground. To learn this method start in the clean, good sites until your have learned it well and then try your newfound experience on harder areas if you like. Remember that I discovered this method by continuing to cover the sand in super hot areas where all good targets had been stripped out and then started by listening to the deep out of range targets.

All of these effects are moderated by your soil conditions and moisture but in demonstrating these techniques I hope to get you to the point where you are not upset by iron, but study it as I have, and discover the benefits of your knowledge.